A detailed educational article by Tandav Industries explaining the DBx1, 1738, and 1738A sewing machine needle systems, including sewing machine needle's shank compatibility, fabric use, and best practices for professional stitching results.
Introduction
Every sewing machine operator, whether beginner or professional, eventually faces a common question: “Why is my machine skipping stitches or breaking thread?” In most cases, the answer lies not in the machine, but in the needle. The needle is the smallest, yet most crucial component in the sewing mechanism.
The correct needle system ensures proper hook timing, smooth fabric penetration, and even stitch formation. However, using the wrong type — even slightly — can lead to poor stitch quality, noise, or mechanical damage. In this article, we’ll focus on the DBx1, 1738, and 1738A systems, which are among the most commonly used needles in lockstitch sewing machines worldwide.
Understanding Sewing Machine Needle Systems
Each sewing machine model is designed to work with a specific needle system. A “needle system” defines the overall design of the needle — including its length, thickness, shank diameter, and eye position — so that it correctly interacts with the hook and bobbin mechanism.
Using a needle with a slightly different length or eye position may seem harmless, but in precision machines, even a 0.5 mm mismatch can affect stitch timing and cause skipped stitches or needle strikes. That’s why understanding the needle system your machine supports is essential before making any replacements.
DBx1 / 1738 Needle System Overview
The DBx1 system, also known as 16×231 or 1738, is the most widely used needle system in single-needle lockstitch machines — both industrial and domestic. It offers versatility across fabric types, from lightweight silks to medium and heavy cottons.
These needles are available in sizes ranging from 60/8 to 200/25. The smaller numbers are used for delicate fabrics, while the larger ones are used for thick or multi-layered materials. The same needle system can serve multiple purposes — the difference lies in the shank size and the needle point.
Common applications:
- Apparel manufacturing (shirts, trousers, uniforms)
- Tailoring and alteration work
- Home decor stitching (curtains, cushion covers)
- Light leather or denim work (with appropriate size)
Shank Thickness and Machine Compatibility
One of the most critical yet overlooked aspects of sewing needle selection is shank thickness. The shank is the upper cylindrical part of the needle that fits into the needle bar clamp. If the shank diameter doesn’t match the machine’s design, it can cause severe mechanical issues.
Typical Shank Dimensions
| Needle Size Range | Shank Diameter | Recommended Fabric Type |
|---|---|---|
| 60/8 – 110/18 | 1.63 mm | Light to medium fabrics |
| 120/19 – 200/25 | 2.00 mm | Heavy materials (canvas, denim, upholstery) |
Before upgrading to a larger needle, check your machine’s manual. Many domestic or semi-industrial machines are designed for 1.63 mm shanks only. Forcing a 2.00 mm needle can lead to alignment errors, needle bar damage, or even break the hook.
What Makes the 1738A System Different?
The DBx1 / 1738A system was developed to overcome the limitation of shank size. It allows sewists to use heavy-duty needle sizes while maintaining the thinner 1.63 mm shank. This makes it compatible with machines that cannot accept 2.00 mm shanks.
In simple terms, the 1738A needle provides the strength of a large needle with the compatibility of a small shank. It’s an ideal solution for users who often work with thick fabrics but own lightweight lockstitch machines.
When to Use 1738A Needles
- When sewing multiple fabric layers or dense materials like canvas or denim.
- If your machine supports only 1.63 mm shanks but you require thicker needles.
- When upgrading from light garment sewing to medium or heavy stitching projects.
The 1738A system prevents mechanical stress on the needle bar while maintaining stitch integrity on thicker materials — a win-win for both machine health and stitch quality.
How to Choose the Right Needle
Selecting the right needle involves considering three key factors: machine compatibility, fabric type, and thread thickness. The correct combination ensures smooth operation and longer needle life.
Selection Guidelines
- Identify your machine’s supported needle system (check manual or old needle markings).
- Match the needle size with your fabric thickness — smaller for fine fabrics, larger for thick ones.
- Choose a needle point suitable for your material — ballpoint for knits, sharp for woven fabrics.
- Match the needle eye size to your thread thickness.
Quick Reference Table
| Fabric Type | Recommended Needle Size | Suggested Needle System |
|---|---|---|
| Light fabrics (silk, organza) | 60/8 – 70/10 | DBx1 / 1738 |
| Medium fabrics (cotton, polyester blends) | 80/12 – 100/16 | DBx1 / 1738 |
| Heavy fabrics (denim, canvas, leather) | 110/18 – 200/25 | DBx1 / 1738A |
Problems Caused by Using the Wrong Needle
Incorrect needle selection leads to several avoidable problems. Recognizing the symptoms can help you fix them early.
- Skipped Stitches: Caused by incorrect needle length, bend, or dull point.
- Thread Breaking: Eye too small for thread or needle eye edges are rough.
- Needle Deflection: Using an oversized needle on a soft fabric causes the needle to flex.
- Hook Damage: Incompatible needle system or shank thickness can disturb hook timing.
- Poor Stitch Formation: Wrong needle angle or needle system mismatch.
Best Practices for Needle Use
To maintain consistent stitching and machine performance, adopt these best practices:
- Always change your needle after 8–10 hours of continuous use.
- Store needles in labeled boxes — by size and system — to avoid confusion.
- Never force a needle into the clamp. If it doesn’t fit easily, check system compatibility.
- Clean lint and thread dust from the needle plate regularly.
- Use genuine branded needles from reliable suppliers.
Summary & Final Thoughts
The DBx1, 1738, and 1738A needle systems are designed to cover nearly all garment and fabric categories. Understanding their shank differences and purpose can prevent costly machine repairs and improve stitch quality. Always remember — the right needle ensures smooth performance, saves time, and enhances the life of your sewing machine.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Are DBx1 and 1738 needles the same?
Yes. The DBx1, 16×231, and 1738 refer to the same needle system — they are interchangeable names used by different manufacturers for the same standard lock-stitch needle type. 0
2. What is the difference between 1738 and 1738A needle systems?
The 1738A needle system has a thinner 1.63 mm shank even for larger needle sizes, so it allows heavier-duty needles on machines that can only accept thinner shanks. 1
3. Can I use a 1738A needle in a machine that supports DBx1?
In most cases yes — the 1738A is designed for compatibility with DBx1 systems. However you must always check your machine’s manual for the recommended needle shank size and system. 2
4. How do I know which needle size to use for my fabric and thread?
Select smaller sizes (60/8–75/11) for lightweight fabrics, medium sizes (75/11–95/15) for medium fabrics, and larger sizes (100/16–200/25) for heavy materials like denim, leather, or canvas. Match thread thickness, fabric thickness, fabric weight and needle eye size.
5. What happens if I use the wrong needle system or size?
Problems include skipped stitches, thread breakage, poor stitch formation, needle deflection, and potential mechanical damage like hook or needle bar issues. 3
6. How often should I replace the sewing machine needle?
It's good practice to replace your needle after about 8–10 hours of sewing or whenever you notice decreased stitch quality. Regular replacement helps maintain machine health and stitch consistency.
7. What shank diameter does DBx1 use?
The DBx1 needle system uses a shank diameter of 1.63 mm up to size 110/18, and above that sizes the shank may change to 2.00 mm unless using the 1738A system. 4
8. Can I use DBx1 needles for heavy-duty materials like leather or upholstery?
Yes, but you must ensure the needle size is appropriate (larger size) and your machine supports the required shank diameter. If your machine only handles thin shanks (1.63 mm) you may need 1738A rather than standard DBx1 for heavy materials.
9. Are there different point types for DBx1/1738 needles?
Yes. Depending on fabric and material you may select sharp point, ball point, leather point etc. The system (DBx1/1738/1738A) refers to shank/size compatibility; point type is a separate characteristic. 5
10. How do I identify the needle system printed on the packet?
Needle packets usually show the system number (e.g., DBx1, 16×231, 1738, 1738A). You should match this to your machine manual. If unsure, consult your machine manufacturer or needle supplier. 6
About Tandav Industries
Tandav Industries is a self-learning platform dedicated to tailoring education, pattern making, and sewing technology. Our goal is to make professional knowledge accessible through videos, articles, and downloadable learning materials — helping learners and professionals upgrade their practical skills in garment manufacturing.
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